Ah, the lilting tones of of the Finger-in-Your-Ear Warbler; the jingle of the Morris bells; the clash of the knobbly Goth stick dancers. It can only be the start of summer and my absolute favourite English music festival, the Beverley Folk Festival. Folk music…? I hear you say. There’s a question in your voice,… Continue Reading
Time and tide on Holy Island
As with a lot of islands, life on Lindisfarne – northeast England’s Holy Island – grows on you. Its medieval priory ruins and skeletal castle frame a charming stone-built hamlet of 160 people, while quiet beaches, seals and seabirds await those who wander through the lanes and strike out across grassy fields filled with wildflowers.… Continue Reading
A flocking brilliant murmuration
We’ve got wildlife in the UK, though it’s more at the deer-and-badger end of the spectrum than lions and tigers and bears (oh my). I’ve seen the wild cattle of Chillingham, and puffins on the cliffs at Bempton, and gazed from Scottish highland crags and Norfolk beaches over basking seals at sunset. Each in its… Continue Reading
On the Captain Cook trail – English shores
I don’t have many travel heroes, but I stand in awe of Captain James Cook, Britain’s greatest explorer and navigator, who circled the world three times in the 18th century. Over the years, I’ve followed in his footsteps – his ship-wake, if you like – from birth to death, and every time I’m in Whitby… Continue Reading
Ghylls, gaiters and Gore-Tex – or how to go hiking in the Lake District
For all those contemplating a New Year’s resolution involving more exercise, here is some advice that you might find useful. Time has passed and the expensive counselling has obviously helped. In due course I should be able once more to wear large boots and a colourful fleece. I may even feeling like buying something made… Continue Reading
Seal Beach – where the wild things are
I love new travel discoveries, especially the sort that blow your mind – the sort that end with you saying, repeatedly, ‘But how did I not know about this?’ to anyone who will listen. Horsey beach in Norfolk is one of those places, and you have to go in the depths of winter, and already… Continue Reading
Supping cider with the monks at Ampleforth
Belgian and French monks, as we know, spend their days brewing hellishly strong fruity beers to sell to hipsters in the East Village and Shoreditch. Beer being the new wine, and all that, and hipsters being the kind of eejits who will pay top dollar for a beer that tastes of strawberries and – many… Continue Reading